The tour guides all talk about how many pubs there are in York (around 365....) but there are also many cafes and tea rooms. Since my classes are small, we usually meet in a cafe and so have visited several. This was particularly nice in September and early October when we could sit in the gardens many of them have out back. During these sessions I became a fan of Fentiman's "Botanically Brewed Ginger Beer" - like our ginger ale, but less sweet and more 'gingery.' I also tried the Dandelion & Burdick and Elderflower soft drinks, but much prefer the "wonderful ginger tickle and burn" of the Fentiman's Ginger Beer. And sometimes I would splurge on a cream tea: a pot of Yorkshire tea (it's very strong - I've reverted to drinking it with milk and sugar just like Grandma made it) with a scone, clotted cream and jam.
The tea garden of Ambience, one of our favorite cafes.
I also like English chocolate. York used to be the English center for several chocolate companies (Terry's, Rountrees and Cravens), though they have now been closed down or purchased by Nestle. But the tradition of good chocolate remains...even in the candy bars purchased at the grocery store. (My favorites are the ones that include a shortbread layer: Lion and Boost bars.) The toffee is also supposed to be good, but after my gold filling came out when eating my first piece, I gave the rest away. I like the 'digestive' cookies (including Hobnobs - a type of digestive made with oats), which are not as sweet as most cookies in the US. But then I also enjoy the other goodies such as Parkin (a type of gingerbread), fruit bread with Wensleydale cheese, and various types of shortbread (one has a layer of caramel and then soft chocolate on top - yum). I will definitely have to go on a diet when I get home.
We haven't had quite as much luck with restaurants, most of which have been mediocre. But we have found a few favorites: Cafe No. 8 (salmon fish cakes and burgers - their chips are fried in goose fat and are great), Il Paradiso del Cibo (wonderful hand made pasta), the Olive Tree (great pasta and the salmon and lamb are both good), Kennedy's for a decent fish & chips, and Melton's Too for Sunday 'roast' and some more great chips (fries). Most of these places are really tiny so you have to make reservations or get there early in the evening. On Friday and Saturday nights every place is always packed, so we either go to the neighborhood pub or shop for dinner at Marks & Spencer, a department store with a food court designed for people who have small kitchens and not much in the way of pantry supplies (or who just don't like to cook). Our particular favorite is the "Dine in for Two" special they run every other week. They advertise it as restaurant quality food to eat in the comfort of your home - and it is!
Below, Wetherspoon's Punch Bowl - our neighborhood pub that serves decent burgers, including a grilled chicken burger. Burger, fries and a pint of ale for 5-6 pounds.
John found a great little cheese shop near the University and we have become fans of their Stichilton - it's a local blue cheese that is similar to Stilton and very creamy. This we will definitely miss.
(Oh....I forgot to mention the bacon buns - or bacon 'butties' - warm, fluffy rolls sliced and filled with two slices of crispy-fried Canadian bacon. The perfect morning sandwich available at almost every corner cafe and a great take-along for a train or bus ride. It's also one of the few dishes here that don't require additional salt...)
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