Good-bye to York

We are looking forward to seeing family and friends and being home for Christmas.  These last few months have been great. There are even some things about our tiny little flat that we will miss...well, maybe not.  Our last few days in it were made much more cheerful by the tulips Doug and Deb gave us.

We are off to take the train to Manchester (about a 2 hour ride), where we will stay the night before our morning flight to Amsterdam, then Detroit, then Grand Rapids. Thanks for following our adventures - it was truly a wonderful three months.

My Favorite Things #6: Just walking around

York is such an enchanting city that I enjoy taking a walk through it even when I don't have anywhere to go or anything to do.  Even when I do have a destination I will often go out of my way to make the walk longer or explore a street or snickelway (alley) I haven't been down before. Today (Saturday) was extremely busy with all the shoppers, but the cool and sunny weather still made the walk pleasant as I dropped off books at Oxfam and clothes at the British Heart Foundation (things I have planned to leave behind to lighten my bags going home).  John and I stopped for lunch at the cafe in the Treasurer's House, above, a building belonging to the National Trust that has a 2000-year history including the Roman road in its cellar. The building itself was closed to tours, but I had one of the best scones ever and another pot of Yorkshire Tea,so it was a good visit for our last weekend here.

The tea room and the old streets around the Treasurer's House.

On a walk Wednesday we discovered that the pub along the river we stopped at the evening before with the DeLeeuws while we were waiting for our restaurant to open was under water! It must happen often since the benches in the pub are stone and built out from the walls. There was a sign inside apologizing for the absence of tables, which had been stored away because of the rising river. 

The River Ouse rises up over its banks...and the sidewalk...and the road. This is the quay that was packed with people on evenings in September and early October. Below, inside the Kings Arms pub shown above - note it's all stone and brick except for the ceiling beams (they do put removable cushions on the stone benches to make sitting a little more comfortable).

And the "flood stick" recording water levels in previous years:

In the last few weeks we have watched the construction of a permanent ferris wheel (The Wheel of York) near the train station. It is now running, though I don't think we will take a ride before leaving.  The pods are enclosed, like the London Eye (which I assume they are trying to copy) and on a clear day even in winter it will likely give a very nice overview of York.  Something to save for our next visit!





My Favorite Things #5: York St. John University

I have said it before, but it bears repeating: York St. John has been a great institution to partner with on this semester.  The campus is beautiful: located just outside the city walls, part of the campus is over 150 years old, yet the classroom buildings (at least for the business school) are very modern. The student body is a nice mix of English and international students. And the faculty of the business school has been so friendly - today they included me in their Christmas lunch, which was held at the school cafeteria and it was one of the best meals I've had since coming here. Actually, it was a lot like an American Thanksgiving meal: squash soup, roast turkey with stuffing and gravy, cranberries and a mixture of roasted veggies [parsnips, carrots, potatoes and brussel sprouts]. But then we had more traditional British dessert: plum pudding or fruit cake with Wensleydale cheese [a Yorkshire tradition]. My office-mates gave me Christmas cards and a tree ornament of the York white rose. I will miss my new "mates."

My Favorite Things #4: Some of the food....

OK, so one doesn't come to England for the food.  And a lot of it wasn't great.  However, there were some things we enjoyed and will miss. Such as Betty's for an excellent (and expensive) breakfast (or lunch or afternoon tea). There is always a line to get in, for good reason.

The tour guides all talk about how many pubs there are in York (around 365....) but there are also many cafes and tea rooms. Since my classes are small, we usually meet in a cafe and so have visited several.  This was particularly nice in September and early October when we could sit in the gardens many of them have out back. During these sessions I became a fan of Fentiman's "Botanically Brewed Ginger Beer" - like our ginger ale, but less sweet and more 'gingery.'  I also tried the Dandelion & Burdick and Elderflower soft drinks, but much prefer the "wonderful ginger tickle and burn" of the Fentiman's Ginger Beer. And sometimes I would splurge on a cream tea: a pot of Yorkshire tea (it's very strong - I've reverted to drinking it with milk and sugar just like Grandma made it) with a scone, clotted cream and jam.

The tea garden of Ambience, one of our favorite cafes.

I also like English chocolate. York used to be the English center for several chocolate companies (Terry's, Rountrees and Cravens), though they have now been closed down or purchased by Nestle. But the tradition of good chocolate remains...even in the candy bars purchased at the grocery store.  (My favorites are the ones that include a shortbread layer: Lion and Boost bars.)  The toffee is also supposed to be good, but after my gold filling came out when eating my first piece, I gave the rest away. I like the 'digestive' cookies (including Hobnobs - a type of digestive made with oats), which are not as sweet as most cookies in the US. But then I also enjoy the other goodies such as Parkin (a type of gingerbread), fruit bread with Wensleydale cheese, and various types of shortbread (one has a layer of caramel and then soft chocolate on top - yum). I will definitely have to go on a diet when I get home.

We haven't had quite as much luck with restaurants, most of which have been mediocre. But we have found a few favorites: Cafe No. 8 (salmon fish cakes and burgers - their chips are fried in goose fat and are great), Il Paradiso del Cibo (wonderful hand made pasta), the Olive Tree (great pasta and the salmon and lamb are both good), Kennedy's for a decent fish & chips, and Melton's Too for Sunday 'roast' and some more great chips (fries). Most of these places are really tiny so you have to make reservations or get there early in the evening. On Friday and Saturday nights every place is always packed, so we either go to the neighborhood pub or shop for dinner at Marks & Spencer, a department store with a food court designed for people who have small kitchens and not much in the way of pantry supplies (or who just don't like to cook).  Our particular favorite is the "Dine in for Two" special they run every other week. They advertise it as restaurant quality food to eat in the comfort of your home - and it is!

Below, Wetherspoon's Punch Bowl - our neighborhood pub that serves decent burgers, including a grilled chicken burger. Burger, fries and a pint of ale for 5-6 pounds.

 John found a great little cheese shop near the University and we have become fans of their Stichilton - it's a local blue cheese that is similar to Stilton and very creamy. This we will definitely miss.

(Oh....I forgot to mention the bacon buns - or bacon 'butties' - warm, fluffy rolls sliced and filled with two slices of crispy-fried Canadian bacon. The perfect morning sandwich available at almost every corner cafe and a great take-along for a train or bus ride. It's also one of the few dishes here that don't require additional salt...)

My Favorite Things #3: York Signs

Old or new, the stores, pubs and restaurants advertise their presence with a picture sign. Often elaborate, I love walking the streets of York and discovering new signs.  Here are just a few:

Note the flower pots still hanging along with the signs - they are real flowers and I took these pictures on December 13! It's always a shock to see green grass and flowers this time of year.

Pansies and primroses in the flower bed by the wall.

And the flower pots with the Christmas Market set up in the background.

But back to the signs....

Then there is the "White Rose of York" that is worked into much of the old wrought iron work in the city.

The stairs to the wall are closed from dusk to dawn, and sometimes if it's a little frosty (so walking the walls would be a little slippery).














Even the iron work in the train station incorporates the York white rose....

And I just love the gold eagle that holds the Bible in the Minster choir area where Evensong is held. It may not be a 'sign' but it is a symbol - apparently the eagle flies higher than any other bird, so it is carrying the word of God up to heaven (or something like that - I can't remember the exact explanation we were given).

My Favorite Things #2: Walking the walls to work

The 30-minute walk from our flat to York St. John University is thoroughly enjoyable...not only does the architecture of so many of the buildings in this city make every walk a pleasant one, but being able to walk on the medieval walls for about half of my trip to work is special (once I get up the steps anyway).

On the way home we usually walk through the city, not just to vary the scenery but to stop somewhere for dinner - though most of the restaurants we've been to will not make my favorite things list.  But more about the food later. Following are just some random buildings and streets of York we walk past and through almost every day:

A Few of My Favorite Things

With the countdown of our last week in York beginning, I thought I would try to capture some of the things we will miss.  We are looking forward to going home, seeing family and friends, and getting as ready for Christmas as is possible in five days (which will be helped greatly by my wonderful cookie exchange friends who decided to include me in the exchange even though I wasn't there to offer any cookies of my own). We have had a great time here in York - it is a special place with some unique experiences that we will miss.  First on my list: the York Minster.

Though the east end of the Minster is covered with scaffolding, there is still plenty of beautiful 12-14th century architecture to admire.  The York Minster is one of the largest Gothic churches in Europe and  has the largest collection of medieval stained glass in Britain.  John and I took a tour that explained the renovation work on the glass of the Great East Window, which is considered the 'crowning glory' of the Minster - it is amazing the painstaking work that goes into restoring each little piece of glass in the large expanse of  stained glass from the 1300s (it is the earliest known work of art by a named English artist). Guess we will have to come back in a few years when the restoration work is complete...below is my favorite window in the Minster that is visible: the 'Heart of Yorkshire' West Window.

But the best thing about the Minster has been Evensong - a choral service at 5:15 (every day but Monday  and 4:00 on Sunday).  We often went after class with students, but the most magnificent Evensong was this Advent Sunday - the "rejoice" Sunday. The organ music in particular was fantastic.

The organ and the choir (or 'quire') where Evensong takes place (no pictures allowed during the service, so I can't show the adorable choir boys from the Minster school).

Since the Archbishop of York is the Chancellor of York St. John University, they had their graduation ceremonies in the Minster and we will be attending the YSJ Christmas Carol concert there Wednesday night as well.